Pictured is a 3 inch foam cork. The line is typically threaded through the foam, but doing so quicly damages the foam and the plug no longer holds the line properly. One solution is to drill a larger diameter hole through the cork and super glue a plastic tube in place. The black plug at the top plugs the tube and holds the mono that is folded back inside the tube. This and keeps the cork a selected distance from the bait as determined by how deep to fish the bait. When a substantial fish strikes, the fold pulls out of the tube and frees the cork to slide down to the fish. The grossly oversized ball bearing swivel is critical, though smaller can be used to prevent line twist. The beads help keep hooks/swivels from pulling through corks and other eyelets. The hook is a 10/0 Owner SSW Circle that has an offset that most of the time hooks the fish in the corner of the mouth and facilitates C&R. Gamakatsu Octopus Circle is another suitable hook. Size of hook depends on the eel size and is typically from 5/0 to 10/0. Four or more corks can be deployed at different distances to avoid tangles by elevating or pointing rods away from the beam. (Hint - retie all knots frequently, some do this each day. Be sure to wet every knot before it is pulled tight. The heat without lube can weaken the line.) The Polarmo is a knot of great strength and in proper sequence, all knots can be the same. Try http://www.powerpro.com/ to refresh tying knots essential for fishing. Wire leader or 60 pound fluoro may prevent gill plate cut offs. Hey, a good snell may also prevent the gill plate break off. Yet, I don't want to leave the impression that I favor braid for hefty COWs. Five to 8 pounds of drag will put a lot of tearing on the lips of a striper. The stretch of mono may provide a gentle pull as compared to braid that has NO stretch. Personally, I want to let the rod work on the fish with a reasonable drag that doesn't cause a break off.
The rod holder is the Pro Drift Master dual position made of 1/2 inch rod. These on the starboard side are locked from swiveling with a wing nut. Those on the port side must have a backup 1/2 inch stainless nut tightened with a wrench to keep the rod holder from turning under pressure. Get the right thread and problem solved. Purchase of a nut was less expensive.
The bottom of the eel tube is loose and can be elevated to meet the hooked end of the eel. The head of the eel slides to the top of the slot, the line is wrapped around the Drift Master, and the line taken up with the reel. The tube prevents the eel from drying while moving to a new drift location and also keep it from balling around most anything it touches. While I use a stainless steel cable tie to hold the loose ended tube, some secure both ends to the rail. Others just slip the eel in the tube and let it hang from the rod holder. Guess there are many suitable means. I don't favor buckets on the deck. I tried a single circle saw cut in 1" PVC last year and had trouble sliding the eel/hook. This year I'm using 1 1/4 inch PVC with a 1/4 inch slot. Might not work for late season small eels, but COWs like big eels!
Of course clean up of accessories is always necessary. Especially with use of slimy eels. I prefer one of them long thin brushes most use for cleaning out clothes driers. About 2 feet long with a large and small diameter. Pushed through the eel tubes with soapy boat wash does the trick.
Many ocean stripers are covered with sea lice when they enter the bay. Once a striper is boated, these critters crawl into everything. Likely there will be fish poop, blood, eel slime, etc. on the deck that will need cleaning. Be prepared . . .
