Hurray, finally can see a departure for Kiptopeke . . .

Hey, hey, I had to postpone my departure one day from the 30th to the 1st, but the bay isn't cooperating as far as seas is concerned. The reports are that the larger stripers are now entering the bay and Tidalfish reports decent catches. I'll have a few photos of the freight when I'm ready to leave the homestead.

The final prep for travel to Kiptopeke

Whew, decided to grease the boat motor and hubs and found out something more than an ordinary round to it. One of the hubs didn't have a grease zerk? Yep, just a hole where it should have been. Obviously fallen out long ago. Glad I didn't leave the task until after getting to Kiptopeke. Last year, after I launched in the deep sand, I found one of the buddy bearing hubs missing. Sand inside the whole bearing! :( Took a while to find the bearing sets and the weather turned bitterly cold. Decided to buy a hub kit rather than replace the bearings and bearing cap. Later, I went ahead and replaced the bearings in the old hub so I'd have a spare for on the road. Only 4 days until departure and now will waste one taking the hub off, cleaning the old grease to check if the bearings are OK, and then reinstall if all goes well. A reason I like the tandom axle is that a flat doesn't leave ya stranded along side the road. I have one of them aluminum circle lifts and spare tires ready if needed.

Already lubed the boat tie downs, a must to be ready for the salt.

Wanted to change the lube in the lower unit, but found that I don't know how? Problem solved as Mike Smedley let me copy pages of his manual and there the instruction was. Get er done tomorrow along with the hub bearing. OK, tomorrow came and I got the hub repaired, but found that the lube pump wouldn't work with my motor. Wrong thread. Says it fits on the label, but . . . Maybe another day.

Pulled the prop, greased the spline, and checked for fishline on the shaft. All looked well, though the prop nut was only finger tight. Unfortunately, I didn't copy the torque data page.

Well, all this stuff is meant as a reminder to others hauling a boat over long distance and doing the launch in the salt.

Several BISC members mentioned on Tidalfish BISC forum that they would be fishing Kiptopeke on T-day. Looked to be 1-2 foot seas and if the stripers are in, there should be a great report.

Decided I can't get ready in time to leave on Nov. 30 and will depart on Dec. 1. Water will be rough on Wensday anyway. Didn't get any response to my Tidalfish post about the Toys for Tots as a club entry. I'll forget about registration as the club obviously doesn't have interest this year.

What's the weather on the Bay near Kiptopeke?

Guess there's lots of web sites, but I've found that

HTTP://www.wunderground.com/MAR/AN/632.HTML

Sometimes works great for me.

Travel to Kiptopeke Inn to evalate the accommodations . . .

Made the trip to Kiptopeke Inn with the company of Bill Fowler. Found the Kiptopeke Inn reluctant to take my dog even though pet friendly for less than $10 a day in addition to the monthly rate. Ok, may be able to deal with that. Wanted to put a 7 cu foot chest freezer in the room for ice/fish storage, but maybe? How to run the electric to charge the boat must be through an alcove and to the rear of the motel. Most all the first floor door locks are broken off and/or show evidence of break in. Do I trust to leave my boat? What to do with the bait tank for the eels. Seems like I'll have to put the tank in the bathroom or there abouts and use a receptical close by as it would be difficult and near impossible to maintain security outside. Then, how to get the electric to the boat. Seems like the Honda EU2000 generator is the only option. The K I said they would call about answering my questions, but it didn't happen.

Tried Kelly's in Cape Charles for lunch and it's as great as ever. Never wanting for more to eat for lunch or dinner - just great food and generous portions. Dinner includes grilled salmon, huge/thick slices of prime rib, fish and chips, and even a Volcano (Pork Ribs arranged appropriately) of pork barbecue. My lumpfin crab cake sandwich with brie sat atop a 1/2 pound hamburger cooked to my perfection. The sanwich stood a full 5 inches tall . . . now way! Sure was! A huge glass of dopplebock and another of Guiness with the sandwich went about $25, modest in today's economy. I assure anyone that the crap sold at StingRays will cost just as much and won't be any where as memorable to encourage a return. Of course, Cape Charles is a touristy destination and has lots of shops that will make most women want to empty a purse of $s. :)

Checked with Shore Stay Suites and they want $500 a week this year and $149 a night. BUT, also indicated that they expected to raise the rate before December . . .

Managed to stop at Oceans East 2 (5785Northampton Blvd, VA Beach) 23455, 757 464 6544 and found some gloves that might keep my hands warm on the bay in December. Called Calcutta, they seem to be made of insulation and water proof. Also got a huge package of Kamagatsu #8/0 circle hooks and a dozen or so #4 stainless ball bearing swivels with welded rings. Owner hooks seem much more substantial for some reason. Guess I'll have to see if I ever get a hook straightend.'

Later, stopped at the Hampton Bass Pro shop and bought another Sumano TLD 20. They were out of the Okuma Sorrento that I wanted. The TLD 20 has all the features I want in a lever drag reel and I may stop next trip and buy another to fill my want of 8 complete rods. Already got about 18 leaders assembled with 40 pound fluorocarbon and ball bearing swivels with various size hooks. Takes time to tie hooks/swivels on the water and cold fingers make it almost impossible.

It's time to get ready for Kiptopeke 2010

This season is a bit different because Xacho, a Goldendoodle (10 months)will join me. Ha, ha, only gold is her nose from either her mom or dad (both blond). At one time, she was total black. Now turning gold and silver? Not sure the meaning of the sadness in her eyes? Fortunately, the Kiptopeke Inn is pet friendly.

















A substantial net is necessary. This Frabill Power measures 36 inches from the top of the loop to the yoke and 30 inches across. The 4 foot telescope handle is not for lifting the fish. It's only for reaching the fish in the water. Once in the net, the net/fish is lifted by grasping the netting. A 60 pound COW may take two fishermen to lift the fish onboard.

One might imagine that toteting lots of rods from the boat to the motel room and back is a bit much for a fossil my age. So, I modified a rod holder and put a set of wheels on one end. Grab the rods on the same end as the wheels, tip the cart and push it to where ya want it. Don't know about stairs yet.



































Now making a list and checking it twice, at least. New additions this year are a 7 cubic foot freezer, the Creek Bank 30 gallon bait tank, and the Honda EU2000 generator. I checked the ampere load of the boat onboard chargers and together they draw a max of 9 amperes. The Honda can supply 13 and will run 8 hours on one gallon of gasoline. The Mister Heater with squat propane tanks is also new on the boat this year. The Kiptopeke Inn may not be power friendly. Previous stops, they have a terribly smelly fish cleaning station along with a hose that can be used with a bucket. Maybe take my own hose to was down the boat?



Tried to rain today and slowed the boat/gear prep. Got some clothing gathered, but now need storage boxes to organize the gear. Only 14 days until departure.




Several BISC club members are interested in joining me for some COW fishing. Unfortunately, no one has committed to a date. Hopefully lots of BISC members join in the fun.



Friday evening and Bill Fowler and I are traveling to Kiptopeke Inn to evaluate the accommodations in the morning. Will be nice to have company along for the long drive. Kind of wish I had a smaller and more fuel efficient vehicle for this kind of trip. The idea is to check how the eel tank might be situated, how boat electric can be connected.



Tied a dozen leader set-ups this evening. Ball bearing swivel, about 30 inches of 40# flourocarbon leader and various size hooks from 5/0 to 10/0. Will make it easy to get rods set up at Kiptopeke and on the water. Found that the 100 pound ball bearing swivels are difficult to both tie with the polarmo and keep free of salt/corrosion. The 300 pound swivels are much easier to maintain. I think more attention with a reel lubricant like Real Magic will keep the swivels running free.

Joy's Do's and Don'ts

OK, here some preaching for the big event. Not the only words, but it should be understood.

Don't fish alone either in the boat or on the water. Do have a buddy boat that you keep in sight and/or in radio contact. Most BISC members on the water now use cell phones rather than announcing to the world what's going on with the fishing.

If hauling yer own boat, do have a spare hub kit, a spare tire, and recently lubed bearings. Be sure all lights work and disconnect the power before dunking in the salt. Rinse the boat, etc. with fresh water ASAP after loading the boat.

Be sure and do have required safety accessories (tossible and personal PFDs and fire extinguisher) and proper lights on the craft. Nothing can ruin yer day than to have a conservation officer write a heafty fine to spoil yer day.

Do use alcohol free gasoline and one station in Cape Charles has the stuff.

Do learn where Cape Charles launch is because at times it is impossible to load or launch a small boat from Kiptopeke. At times, storms drive sand quite deep onto the launch ramp and 4X4 drive may be necessary.

Do be cautious with wind greater than 11 mph out of the West, likely result in small craft warnings. Wind out of the East, North, and sometimes South may result in light seas at the concrete ships.

Don't venture near the CBBT islands unless you know how to handle the swift tide and have boat/motor enough for the situation.

Do record a GPS track that will guide your boat away from shoals, fish trap pilings, concrete ships, the beach, and back to the launch. You will get caught in a fog or dark on the bay, plan wisely. Again, DO have a buddy boat near.

What to read before heading to Kiptopeke?

Well, Rudow's Guide to Rockfish by Lenny Rudow is a great place to start. He fishes different techniques than the Buggs Island Striper Club developed over the years. Then, what works for me may not work for you.

GMCO's Southern Chesapeake Bay Chart might prove useful in learning where the shoals and channels are out of Kiptopeke State Park. Another is the ADC (The Map People) Chesapeake Bay Maryland and Virginia 8th edition or newer. Some consider this chart book both expensive and the best.

How many Pigs or Stripers each day?

Ramrod put Joy and Raymond Hansen into some decent pigs. Gotta love how Ramrod gets on the fish!


Hey fishermen, ya gotta be sure ya got a few things in order. Unless you are fishing with a licensed charter captain, ya need a license for the salt, a NOAA registration, and . . . we are fishing for COWs and Pigs, not CBBT schoolies. Meaning ya can only keep one striper 35 inches or greater each day. You cannot posess a striper between 28 and 34 inches. You can catch and release as you like. The slot for keepers is 18 to 27 inches each day. It's typical for stripers feeding on eels in December to be a minimum of 30#s and about 38 inches. A 40 inch C&R verified by a companion fisherman is worth a citation. 44 inches verified at a weigh station is also a citation. Any fish COW size is a citation. I'll leave this post open for comment as my memory may not be as good as I once was.


Fishermen cannot use a gaff on stripers. Rather, have a substantial net suitable for a 60# striped bass. My Frabill Power Catch measures 36 inches from the top to the yoke and 30 inches across. The handle telescopes and is 4'. A word of caution is "NEVER" try to lift a fish in the net as you would a shovel. Instead, always net the fish and then grasp the net material to lift the fish on board. In fact, with a COW, you might want help getting the critter over the rail. If ya do catch and release, a dehooker might be a wise investment as long as you learn how to use it. The lips on a striper can be tough. I have pliers suitable for grasping a hook. If ya intend to catch and release, be prepared to just cut the leader rather than injure the fish. I seem to remember that holding a cow from the lips will damage the internal organs of a striper. Rather, support the body of the striper at the head and vent.

Check out Chris' Bait and Tackle (757) 331 3000. Lots of great information, eels, tons of appropriate striper fishing gear. Well, hunting too if ya do both on the Eastern Shore.


Ramrod put Steve Smith on this monster striped bass, shown here with Ramrod and Joy at the Chris' Bait and Tackle weigh in. 58 1/4 pounds and 54 inches long.

It will be cold, colder, coldest . . .

While some periods in December on the Chesapeake can be very comfortable, please be prepared for less than 40 degree air temp. With wind, it will feel like "zero". My brother, Raymond Hansen is comfy because he removed his head gear for the photo. Even so, you can tell he's very happy with his and my keepers boated for the day. His, the larger is 44#s.

Insulated water proof calf high boots will keep yer feet dry. I like bib gortex outer wear and inner wear as needed. The hooded gortex outer jacket allows some flexibility by opening flaps and zippers. Some kind of great skull cap that may cover the face will help. Anytime the boat moves in cold weather, it's possible to freeze exposed skin. Ski goggles are strongly recommended to be worn when the boat moves at speed to the beginning of the drift. I sometimes use a sport mask.

Chemical wrist warmers might help keep fingers warm. Even a chemical warmer in a pocket will help.

What about drying wet boots, gloves, socks, etc. and Eels . . .

Saw a commercial version of what I prepared with PVC. Mine uses a standard hair drier and putting hot air inside gloves, socks, and boots makes them dry quickly.









The 3 bucket eel storage system works for a dozen or two eels. The bottom bucket in my system has a Creek Bank Bait Spa, available from Core Tackle. This is more than an aerator. It filters, circulates water with a 300 gph pump and adds micro bubbles to the water flow. The next upper level bucket has holes to allow the aerated water to circulate around the eels. Eels can survive without water, but not without aeration if in the water. They must be kept damp and cool. So, I have a second bucket with holes that add ice so the melting drips on the eels. I can leave the bottom with the spa home or in place to catch melting ice water, etc. Back home, I get water aerating and allow the eels to swim.

A cloth/towel works OK for grasping the eels; however, a paper towel works better. Important to grasp the eel just behind the head and hook through both lips from the bottom up. The colder ya keep the eels, the easier it will be to get them on the hook. Putting them directly on/in the ice may kill them. Best to keep the holes smaller than 3/8 inch in diameter. Cleaning the burrs may reduce eel sliming.



















If ya choose to buy eels in volume (like 100), be sure to bring along a bait tank, 12 volt battery, and charger to keep things running. Eels are slimy and need frequent filter change and cool temperatures. Ya may need a large frozen pop bottle to drop in with 'em to keep em comfortable. Aeration is critical!

What about the rod/reel?

While most any rod capable of handling 15-30 pound mono and having 7 foot along with a fast tip will work, I chose the various versions of the Ugly Stix (from striper, custom, catfish, etc.) Reels on the other hand need to have a quality drag, and have sufficient line capacity for handling the powerful runs of a COW striper. I bought several reels much to massive for the purpose, but something like the Shumano TLD15 Lever Drag works well for me. The spool can be set free with the clicker for some applications, moved to medium drag and or strike drag as preset before fishing. Usually the max drag is 1/4 the line test. While the line can be relatively light and still allow a quick landing of the fish for C&R, the leader must be substantial for larger fish. The gill plates can server line! I favor fluoro in the 40-50 pound range. Another reason I favor the larger weight ball bearing swivels is the pinch for the knot in the welded swivel eyelets. It's seldom a question of hangs on the bottom that would require lighter weight terminal leader. Yet, them damn crab pot and other rope debris can cause havoc and ruin a day's tackle.




The reel clamp is a critical accessory. Most any fish of Cow size can destroy a reel seat on the rod and drop the reel. Bluefish seem to be more adept at this even when much smaller that a striped bass.




I like the reels with the harness lugs so I have an option of using a tether to keep the rods on the boat. Sometimes, wind/wave/fish all combine to
make a rod jump into the debths.








Often, storage of rods in a motel or at home is difficult. I solved the problem by fabricating a rod holder from 1 1/2 inch PVC. Shown without wheels to allow moving the gear from the boat to the motel or into my home garage from the boat, soon, it will be wheeled. Can't leave tackle on boats as the rods/reels have legs as soon as it gets dark. I don't need more than 10 rods for Kiptopeke fishing. Yet, always need a spare rod just in case. I started by making one of these rod holders and ended up making 4 additional to keep all my rods secure.

Other ideas are to angle the vertical tubes to about 70 degrees to decrease the vertical height as some have 7 foot rods and motel ceilings are low. Works for me!

Why a planer?

Planer boards allow the baits to be spread wider than the boat. With two planers on each side, the water covered can be as much as 100 feet to each side of the boat. I chose this planer because it is large and works for the application. Eels can be huge and swim to the bottom with lots of vigor. It's necessary for striper fishng success to run with the tide/wind (drift) sometimes at 2 mph. This puts a lot of pressure on the blade and buoyant material of the planer. Small planers will SINK!

With this planer, the rod has a clip in the end that the line is sandwiched into. Before doing this, the line is looped and twisted, then the clip is pressed. This holds the line firmly most of the time. The loop/twist allows the pull of a fish to drop the line out of the clip. The lead to the bait is fastened in the clip. It's critical that a bead large enough to be held by the swivel snap be ahead of the ball bearing swivel. Nothing is worse than loosing a fish because the planer slid to the hook. I like the signal orange planers. I understand that Core Tackle has a great planer that is large and functions well. The closed pin like clip can be replaced with a plastic tube and plastic stopper like used in the cork set-up. Really, a supply of golf "Ts" does the job. I'll drill a small hole through the length of the golf "T" if it isn't already there. The plug must stay on the line unless ya want to take a bucket full of golf "Ts" on the boat. Just be sure the clip or tube hold the line securely for the weight of the eel and waves. You can waste a lot of time retrieving the planer and resetting it.

Again, there are as many variations of planers as there are fishermen.

What about the tackle for COWs?

Pictured is a 3 inch foam cork. The line is typically threaded through the foam, but doing so quicly damages the foam and the plug no longer holds the line properly. One solution is to drill a larger diameter hole through the cork and super glue a plastic tube in place. The black plug at the top plugs the tube and holds the mono that is folded back inside the tube. This and keeps the cork a selected distance from the bait as determined by how deep to fish the bait. When a substantial fish strikes, the fold pulls out of the tube and frees the cork to slide down to the fish. The grossly oversized ball bearing swivel is critical, though smaller can be used to prevent line twist. The beads help keep hooks/swivels from pulling through corks and other eyelets. The hook is a 10/0 Owner SSW Circle that has an offset that most of the time hooks the fish in the corner of the mouth and facilitates C&R. Gamakatsu Octopus Circle is another suitable hook. Size of hook depends on the eel size and is typically from 5/0 to 10/0. Four or more corks can be deployed at different distances to avoid tangles by elevating or pointing rods away from the beam. (Hint - retie all knots frequently, some do this each day. Be sure to wet every knot before it is pulled tight. The heat without lube can weaken the line.) The Polarmo is a knot of great strength and in proper sequence, all knots can be the same. Try http://www.powerpro.com/ to refresh tying knots essential for fishing. Wire leader or 60 pound fluoro may prevent gill plate cut offs. Hey, a good snell may also prevent the gill plate break off. Yet, I don't want to leave the impression that I favor braid for hefty COWs. Five to 8 pounds of drag will put a lot of tearing on the lips of a striper. The stretch of mono may provide a gentle pull as compared to braid that has NO stretch. Personally, I want to let the rod work on the fish with a reasonable drag that doesn't cause a break off.



The rod holder is the Pro Drift Master dual position made of 1/2 inch rod. These on the starboard side are locked from swiveling with a wing nut. Those on the port side must have a backup 1/2 inch stainless nut tightened with a wrench to keep the rod holder from turning under pressure. Get the right thread and problem solved. Purchase of a nut was less expensive.

The bottom of the eel tube is loose and can be elevated to meet the hooked end of the eel. The head of the eel slides to the top of the slot, the line is wrapped around the Drift Master, and the line taken up with the reel. The tube prevents the eel from drying while moving to a new drift location and also keep it from balling around most anything it touches. While I use a stainless steel cable tie to hold the loose ended tube, some secure both ends to the rail. Others just slip the eel in the tube and let it hang from the rod holder. Guess there are many suitable means. I don't favor buckets on the deck. I tried a single circle saw cut in 1" PVC last year and had trouble sliding the eel/hook. This year I'm using 1 1/4 inch PVC with a 1/4 inch slot. Might not work for late season small eels, but COWs like big eels!

Of course clean up of accessories is always necessary. Especially with use of slimy eels. I prefer one of them long thin brushes most use for cleaning out clothes driers. About 2 feet long with a large and small diameter. Pushed through the eel tubes with soapy boat wash does the trick.

Many ocean stripers are covered with sea lice when they enter the bay. Once a striper is boated, these critters crawl into everything. Likely there will be fish poop, blood, eel slime, etc. on the deck that will need cleaning. Be prepared . . .

Getting ready for the action

Getting started in fishing for a trophy COW striped bass at was forced on me by Mike Smedley, Team Old School by offering a free day at the Kiptopeke fishing ground for myself and daughter Deb Butler. Her PIG came the next day fishing with Lanny Parrott.

Yes, "Fish On" is a team effort and usually the skill and knowledge of the Captain of the boat!

Debbie wonders where to begin cleaning her prize?  The table is 5 feet long, to put the size of the fish in perspective.

All is well that ends well happily.  Deb remembers lots of stuff, but the celery?

Captain Smedley, Team Old School, is wondering where the 50 pound COWs that he encountered the previous day have gone.  Or was it a dream?

The SeaPro newly arrived at the homestead in Scottsburg, VA

Might not seem very exciting to bring a new boat home, but after you take a look at another blog

In the beginning, Joy dreamed a fishing boat.

THE SEAPRO UNDER COVER

<
> The pictured Sea Pro 21.5 is suitable for max 4 foot seas to be somewhat comfortable. Keeping in mind that a rogue 7 footer might be rising to challenge the best of captains. Up front, there's the Minn Kota Riptide trolling motor designed for the salt. It is outfitted with the i-Pilot for convenience. The outboard power is a Yamaha 150 6 cylinder 2 stroke (has a convenient hose connector to flush engine galleys). The T-top by Smith and Company is a great addition. A forward locker on the port is for fish and the one on the starboard is for gear. A live well sits in front of the console and behind the leaning seat. Rocket launch rod holders adequate for purpose, drift master rod holders also adequate for purpose. Eel tubes, Lowrance HDS8 sonar/gps with LSS-1 Structure Scan and raised relief graphic, NorthStar Explorer 721 marine radio, 2 12 volt batteries for the Trolling Motor, One 12 volt for the sonar/gps electronics, and two start batteries with Parker switch to keep one in reserve. All batteries (sealed) have onboard chargers. A backup Navman GPS sits on the console. A wish list is for a Lowrance broad band radar. The bay can be suddenly socked in with impossible fog.